Cham at Rumtek

In the current century of smart phones, internet and 3D movies, where western culture is highly motivating the youth, where nations aspire to go digital,where old ruins are replaced by magnificent architecture and engineering marvels of the new world; one of those very few things that still holds the fabric of traditions and the cultural heritage those inherited by our forefathers for generations before- is dance. The various dance forms in the traditional attire mostly referred to as the folk dances have somehow been able to create an unique identity for people inhabiting in different regions of the planet. These dances are usually showcased during festivals celebrating events such as the harvesting of crops or the new year. Similarly there are religious dance forms, that aims at creating awareness among masses and are themed on the victory of good over evil. The monastic dance or the ‘Cham’ is one such beautiful arrangement.

  

Rumtek, a small town situated in the east district of Sikkim, places itself in the hills facing the capital city- Gangtok , which is some twenty five kilometres from here. The place gains its importance from the beautiful monastery named after it, and is a sacred place of worship for the Buddhists.

The ‘Cham’ is the annual monastic dance that is performed every year or in periodic sets of years in various monasteries in Sikkim. The event was fixed on the eight of January, twenty-sixteen for this year and I managed half a day for it. The dance starts from the early hours of the day and continues till late in the evening with small breaks in between. So as you climb the steep road leading to the monastery from its main gate, the mantras aired from the loudspeakers sets you ready for the beautiful depiction of afterlife through dance. It is performed in the courtyard by the monks of the concerned monastery perfectly in tune to the beat of the drum, the exotic sounds of the extra long trumpets, the  piercing cymbals and the chanting of the mantras. But what draws the crowd are the vibrant mix of both coloured costumes and the masks of the deities and animals worn by the monks who perform the dance. The daggers and the swords; the expressions and the moves  in sync with the tone of the chants creates the perfect ambience. But they carry a message. They believe, after you die, in the transition period (ie., between death and the new life) when your soul wanders about, you will have to face these animals and the deities. And based on the life you have lived, they will lead you either to heaven or to hell. This dance is thus a depiction of the afterlife that one would face and thus prepares one so that he is not frightened later on. Throughout, you will find a few number dressed and acting as jokers just to lighten the atmosphere a bit and thus to keep away any misfortune amidst all these.

There are many such themes to these dances  that are being performed in other  monasteries as well, that more or less sends the same message- the teachings of Buddha, the path of dharma, to stay away from doing what is morally wrong and to live a life full of compassion.

The main place of worship becomes more of a rehearsal room where monks next in queue prepare themselves and as such on that day, visitors are not allowed inside. There are however sitting arrangements around the courtyard both in the ground floor and the one above. One particular story telling may last more than an hour, like in our case, and if you are interested in photography, you wouldn’t mind that.

If you are staying in Gangtok, an half day trip to the place would cost you atleast 800/- with a small car (say an alto). There are no public buses for the route. Sumos or 10/12 seater  travellers is the only other option. They would charge you 50/- to 60/-, but in such a case u must start early as later in the day, you may struggle to find any vehicle from the other end. The taxi stand is below the MG Marg, near the restaurant- Hungryjack and the Dominos.

And last but not the least, you must carry your identity proof along as the gate is guarded by army men who will check both you and your belongings. This chapter has a bitter story to it. For that, you may refer its history.

Also, here I would like to thank Smt. Kiden Bhutia, (who is an Announcer (Sikkimese) at All India Radio, Gangtok) for the valuable information I received from her.

And, I certainly meant colours-

NOTE: Whatever is being written here are the personal views of the author and are subjected to agreement or disagreement.